A home to 12 Jyotirlingas, Omkareshwar is a river island on the Narmada river and is considered as one of the holiest places in India. The name ‘Omkareshwar’ is derived from the sign of OM which is formed when you take an aerial view of the hill which is surrounded by Narmada on all sides and hence, it is called Omkareshwar. Om is the primordial sound from which it is believed that everything emerged.
According to legends, in Satyuga when Mandhata of Ikshvaku dynasty, an ancestor of Sri Ram, ruled the island of Omkareshwar, the Narmada shone brightly. Taken aback by the view, sage Narada asked Shiva, ‘what is it?!’ to which Shiva passed on the knowledge of ever changing appearance of the island in each Yuga.
In Satyuga, the island took the shape of a giant sparkling gem, in Treta Yuga it was a mountain of gold, in Dwaparyuga it was of copper and in Kaliyuga it has taken the shape of a rock.
History of Omkareshwar
It has been suggested that there has been signs of habitation in Omkareshwar since 5500 years. Purans also supports that it was a living as well as a pilgrimage place for a long time.
In the recorded history, from 10-13th CE, Omkareshwar was under the rule of Parmars, followed by Chauhan Rajputs. Despite the fact that Mughals rules almost all over the country, Omkareshwar was still under the administration of Chauhans. In 18th CE Marathas took over and that is when a lot of temples were built or renovated. Eventually, it came under British rule until India gained independence in 1947.
Omkareshwar Temple
Omkareshwar Temple also known as, ‘Omkareshwar Mahadev Temple’ is located on the Northern bank of Narmada. There are two ways to reach on the other side which is, either via a boat ride or the Mamleshwar Setu. Ideally, one should consider taking a boat ride one way and walk the other. A series of steps from the ghats lead to the temple. You will pass through and witness canopies of flower sellers to reach the base of the temple.
Omkareshwar is also believed to be the ‘NabhiSthal’ or the navel of the river and a perfect place to begin and end the Narmada Parikrama. For others, who start from the source, it is still an important stop on the Narmada Parikrama Journey.
Made of 60 solid stone pillar, the mandapa of the temple is beautifully made carved with Yakshi figures. You will also find the images of various devi devtas around the temple walls.
Shivalinga
A rounded, elliptical shaped, the Shivalinga is in the form of a rock on which constantly water is offered. Abhishek is done with milk, curd and Narmada water three times a day. The pedestal is provided with a passage for draining away the water that is poured on the top. Also, behind the Shivalinga is the image of Parvati in silver.
Morning Puja is done by temple trust, day puja is done by Scindias and evening one by the Holkars. Shayan or the night Arti is quite popular here. This Aarti is open to the public and you can witness this around 8:30 PM every night. A bed is laid out for Shiva and Parvati in front of the Shivalinga. A game of Chaupad is placed for them to play before they go to sleep.
This temple is also called Omkar Mandhata temple as it is believed that it was the devotion of the Ikshvaku king Mandhata that brought Shivalinga here. His ‘Gaddi’ can still be seen in the temple premises. There are many small temples surrounding the main temple like a PanchMukhi Hanuman Temple, a Shani Temple and a temple dedicated to Dwarkadhish.
Mandhata Palace
Take the stairs from the back of the temple towards the hill and you would see a tall white wall – this is the Mandhata palace of Omkareshwar. There are 80 odd steps that you have to take to reach the gate of the palace. A part of it is open to the public.
The insides of the temple are made like a typical North Indian Haveli wherein you will see an open corridor surrounded by pillared corridors. What attracts the most is the simple yet colorful Durbar hall. There is a beautiful round ceiling with remains of glasswork on it. However, the best part of this hall is the view from its Jharokhas or overhanging windows. You will see the top view of Omkareshwar temple and this when you will realise how big the temple is! The deep gorge that Narmada has created and when you see it flowing amidst it with colorful boats plying between its two shores is a lovely scene to sit and admire.
Omkareshwar Parikrama
According to legend, Narmada is considered to be Shiva’s daughter, and the the purest of the pure and circumambulation in this place as initiated by Adi Shankaracharya is a picturesque and calming route beyond the religious fervor. A 16 km Parikrama or circumambulation path goes around the island of Omkareshwar. Alternatively, you can do this Parikrama by boat. The only condition is the river should have enough water to allow boats to go around.
Mamleshwar Temple
The Mamleshwar temple, also known as Amleshwar or Amareshwar temple is one half of the Jyotirlinga at Omkareshwar. It is cited that one’s Omkareshwar pilgrimage is not complete without visiting this temple
Mamleshwar temple is located in a walled complex well protected by ASI as a complex of 7 different temples. In terms of temple architecture, Mamleshwar temple complex has an old world charm. When you walk around the temple complex you are transported back in time surrounded by mighty stone walls with carved sculptures. A Nandi Mandap outside the main temple is worth noting.
Besides this, there is KashiVishwanath Temple and a Vishnu Temple that are frequented by the visitors.
The Narmada at Omakareshwar
One of the seven holy rivers of India, Omkareshwar cannot be visited without paying your respects to the Narmada. The holy river is not just limited to surrounding the Mandhata hill on which the main Omkareshwar temple is located but also flows between the two most important temples here – Mamleshwar& Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga.
At Omkareshwar, the Narmada cuts a deep gorge. When you see Narmada river, It reminds you of the power of persistence that the holy river beholds. The tall stones that she has cut through her waters over ages can be seen when you walk on the bridge connecting the two shores. Witnessing such a scenario tells you in itself that how a river makes a way for itself. Even when you will look at the Google Maps image, it will feel as if the water made way on either side of the tall hill, making it an island.
Ghats of Narmada at Omkareshwar have their own life. The colorful boats ferry customers from one end to another, others take them for a circumambulation around the island.
